Ok, so fundamentally my paint upon my doorway burst as well as somebody took a moment off as well as right away a fundamentally similar to a large thinly slice in my door. How do i repair this, i consider it needs to be similar to hermetic in as well as afterwards sanded as well as repainted, though im not sure, a a flattering large chip, similar to a distance of a quater. Where can i go to repair this so it wouldnt be expensive? Can i do it myself, where would i buy a collection i need. Agan a similar to a low thinly slice a distance of a quater.
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same color sharpie!
nah just kiddin. that sucks… it shouldn’t cost too much to bring it in. it’s not that big of a spot. don’t let anyone pick at it anymore though.
visit the dealership and ask for some paint. they sell it in jars that look like nail polish.
They have this paint repair stuff at auto zone and it has instructions but if it is as deep as a quarter I’d probally take it somewhere to have them do it…
im not sure what my dad had onto my paint chip but it’s like a paint spray… and is really used for cars with paint chip
How to Properly Repair Paint Chips
The repair of a scratch and a chip are the same. A scratch is merely a chip on uni-directional steroids. The only problem with a scratch is that it takes more time to be able to blend in the new paint.
Items you need:
Touchup or color matched paint
Compatible primer – I like Wurth Rustop primer
Organic cleaner – P21S Total Auto Wash or Wurth Citrus Degreaser
Solvent – Rubbing Alcohol or Prepsol or Enamel Reducer
3M Imperial Hand Glaze
Meguiar Finesse Sanding Block 2000 grit
Car wash
600 grit wet/dry sandpaper
Round undyed wooden toothpicks
Large lightweight cardboard boxes (large shoe box or bigger)
Several 100% cotton towels
Magnifying glass – help for we with older eyes
New Pencils with unused erasers
Rubber glue
Several heavy clean plastic cups
Roll of quality paint masking tape
Realize that paint chip repair is a learned skill and should be practiced on an area of the car that is not that visible. The hood and nose are two areas that should be tackled last. Test all cleaners or solvents on the paint prior to usage. I like to use the seam underneath the rocker panels. Apply a little cleaner or solvent to a cloth and rub the seam. If you do not get any color on the rag, then the cleaner/solvent should be safe for the paint. If you do get color on the rag, then you may wish to consider another solvent.
CHIP REPAIR STEPS:
1. At least 24 hours before you want to start, use the rubber glue to attach small 600 grit sandpaper circles (the diameter of the eraser) onto several new pencils. The eraser must be unused and flat on top.
2. Step #1: Wash the car with a quality car wash and dry thoroughly.
3. Paint chips come in two flavors. The worst case has exposed the bare metal, while the less severe has left the original primer intact. Clean the area thoroughly with the P21S or Wurth Citrus degreaser. If there is rust on the exposed metal, clean off with the pencil eraser. Use a toothpick to gently probe the area and make sure that the edges of the chip are secure and not waiting to fall off and destroy your work. This is an optional step! If you do not feel comfortable with sanding or your paint is one of the new clear-coated finishes, you should jump to step number 5. Take a new pencil/sandpaper tool, dip into clean water and put a few drops of water on the chip area. *SLIGHTLY* rough up the chip and a small portion of the surrounding paint. Lightly turning the pencil will rough up an area the diameter of the eraser and this should be more than enough. Keep the roughed up area as small as possible, the object is to give the new paint approximately 1 mm of old paint to “grab” around the perimeter of the chip and not dig scratches.
4. Move onto the next chip and repeat the above. Depending upon the amount of time available, you may wish to tackle 10-20 chips at one time. Try to stay within the area that may be covered by your box(es).
5. When finished sanding all your chips you are tackling at this time apply a small amount of Alcohol or Prepsol or Enamel Reducer to a rag and wipe each chip and surrounding area to remove any sanding dust and grease/oils. Use additional solvent and new area of the rag for each chip. Allow to dry (these are highly volatile and will evaporate quickly with no residue).
6. If the original primer is intact, and “pencil sanding” does not disturb the primer, then skip the next step and go directly to painting (# 9)
7. Make sure that the chip and surrounding area is clean. If not, reclean with the Prepsol, Alcohol or Enamel Reducer. Pour or spray a small amount of primer into a clean plastic cup. Dip the point of a wooden toothpick into the primer to get a thin coating on the first 1-2 mm of the toothpick. If there is a blob on the end, gently scrape it back into the cup. Place the tip of the toothpick against the center of the chip and allow capillary action to literally flow a *THIN* coat of the primer into the depression of the chip. Move onto the next prepared chip. If you have finished priming all your prepared chips before two hours are up, cover with a box, taped down with masking tape and go have a beer. The key is to allow the first coat of primer to dry at least two hours. Dispose of your cup and start with a fresh cup and toothpick. Apply another thin coat of primer to each repair that needs primer. Priming is completed when no metal is visible and the level of the primer is *BELOW* the level of the surrounding paint. This is important! Cover and allow to dry for two hours or until dry.
8. Apply a small amount of Alcohol or Prepsol or Enamel Reducer to a rag and wipe the chip and surrounding area to remove any sanding dust and grease/oils. Allow to dry. Repeat for all the chips that are on today’s list of victims.
9. If you are using a touchup, shake the bottle thoroughly. If you are using color-matched paint, mix thoroughly and pour a small amount into a clean plastic cup.
10. Dip the point of a new toothpick into the paint to get a thin coating on the first 1-2 mm of the toothpick. If there is a blob on the end, gently scrape it back into the bottle. Place the tip of the toothpick against the center of the chip and allow capillary action to literally flow the paint into the depression of the chip. Repeat for each chip. The key is not to use too much paint. Do not redip the toothpick. Use only the amount that will flow from one dip. Temptation to add more paint with each application will be almost overwhelming. Fight it!
11. Cover with your paint box and allow to dry 2 hours and repeat 8-12 times till the depression is filled with paint and bulges slightly upward and covers the roughed up area with a thin coating of paint. The first 2-3 coats may not completely hide the primer. This is fine because you have many more coats to go. Fight that urge!
12. The paint application is completed when the new paint bulges slightly upward (a fraction of a millimeter) and had covered the roughed up area with a thin coat of new paint. Allow the paint to dry for at least a week.
13. The touchup paint has been applied to the surface and allowed to dry for at least 1 week, and resembles a minute mound ( __o__ ) (this is exaggerated) on the flat plane of the existing paint. The object is to remove the mound and make the surface of the paint one continuous flat plane. The Finesse Block offers the ability to gently remove only the high spot of the repair. Unlike sandpaper or polish on a rag, the five usable sides of the block are flat and act like a “wood plane” to remove only the elevated areas of the repair. The 2000 grit will not leave scratches.
14. Soak the Finesse Block in clean water for 24 hours prior to use. Put a small drop of car wash on the chip repair. This acts as a lubricant for the sanding block. Then gently “plane” the high spot on the paint. I prefer to “plane” in one direction (usually back to front – drawing the block towards me). If the block dries out, re-wet and continue use. When the new and existing paints are blended (smoothed to the flat plane) to your satisfaction, clean the area using a quality car wash and lots of water and then use a quality glaze to restore the high gloss finish. I prefer 3M Imperial Hand Glaze. Don’t use a machine on your car, as it deserves to be caressed by hand. Use a machine on your Yugo or SO.
15. When applying either a glaze or a wax, apply to your soft cotton cloth or applicator pad (don’t squirt the stuff on the car) and work in one direction only. Don’t go around in circles like dear old dad. Circles are many times the cause of “swirl marks.” A front-to-back, back-to-front motion (the way the air flows over the car) will help minimize swirl marks or at least make them less visible. Buff out with a soft cotton cloth. If it looks good, wax with a quality hard wax and you are done.
16. Tip for applying wax. If you are using a quality Carnauba based wax, try applying it with your fingers instead of a pad or cloth. Hold your fingers together and use your fingertips as an applicator pad. The tactile feedback from your fingers will tell you when the wax has been worked into the paint. If grit should lodge under your fingers, you will know immediately and not grind it into the paint. A pad will not allow this tactile feedback and these devil grits become sandpaper. A circular motion of the pad will make a 360-degree swirl mark. All marks on paint are most visible at a 90 degree viewing angle. Thus the front to back marks are most visible from the sides, whereas a circle stands out from any viewing angle.
The question was also asked if clear touchup should be used as a final coat to repair chips on clear coat paint. There are two viewpoints to this question. The purist will say yes, the paint has a clear coat and thus, the repair should also. The process is the same as previously described, except the clear coat is substituted for the last 2-3 coats or paint. The practical world says no. The touchup paint is different from the original paint and is formulated only as a touchup paint. Once it is applied it should, according to the manufacturer, match well enough to be all but invisible. I have found this to be the case with the numerous repairs on the many cars/colors, I have completed. If you are using the original paint as a touchup (I have not done this with a clear coated car), then my understanding is that you should use the clear as a topcoat. The color coat of some paints will many times be relatively dull in appearance. These paints rely on the clear coat to provide the “shine.” Try one chip in an area that is not that visible. If the process works, then continue with the rest. If not try the clear coat top layer.
If you have any questions or if you need any further information, please feel free to contact us.
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ahhaha you cant paint your car yourself unless you intend to spray paint it with crap from the duron store. uh check around and see whos got the best price…such as a local body shop, macco, or a dealer ship…any of those should be able to give you a quick estamit. depending on where the scratch is, can greatly reflect your paint job price. like a door will cost more than a side fender due to size of panel.
you can fix that yourself. just take some sandpaper and you see the chip?, sand towards the chip, not away from it, or you will chip more out, keep sanding until it feels smooth. if you feel like it, take some spot putty and a squeggy and apply a thin coat around the chip, until it feels smooth, then take some primer(red is better), let it dry and take some fine sandpaper, if you like you can use wet paper, just to roughen the primer some, then paint it.
The way sporrega said it is if you want it done right, but if you can’t afford it, then just find the paint code for your car, the dealer can tell you. Call around or online for that color touch up paint and use a real small model car brush and dot it with the paint (clean it with denatured alcohol first), even if you didnt get it thick enough, let it dry and add more later. When dry, sand with 1000 grit wet/dry paper in circles not to much though, then buy a buffer if you want it to shine. Not perfect but will fade in the sun to the same color as the rest and will be less noticeable. And if it doesnt turn out right you can always take a hammer to the rest of the car to make blend in.
Not a problem………
This is a good one to get started on!
First: You need to replace the color in the chip. Go to a auto parts store and go to the “DUPI-COLOR” rack and get a small bottle of matching paint and a small sheet of 600 or 800 grit (wet or dry) sand paper.
Second: You need to go to a drug store and buy a bottle of the “thick” Gloss “Fingernail Polish.”
Then you ready to go!
1. With the matching paint use the little brush inside the bottle and dab the end of the brush to the metal and cover all the chips light colored area. If you get some on the paint just wipe it off. (If it drys a put a little thinner on a rag and just wipe it away)
2. Now that the color is there and dry, do the same with the finger nail polish, it may take 2 or 3 times to bring up the level of nail polish as high as the paint. Each clear coat of polish will dry very fast so give it a little time to get solid.
3. Now with your very fine sand paper work it down smooth, and you may want to give it another coat of clear if there are some depressions in the clear. But stay inside the chip and build it up.
4. When your about done, use a small block of wood or anything flat to wrap the sand paper around and lightly sand the chip and the old paint a little till it turns white like the sanded polish.
5. Then with a little polish or polishing compound, and a rag (of buffer if you have one) , polish it out to a gloss.
Its not about color Its about how it reflects the light from the ground . If the repair is flat and even with the paint it will reflect the light as the rest of the paint and no one will notice.
Color doesn’t matter if its just close, say on a dark blue scratch I would use flat black in the chip or scratch. If the clear is done smooth …..only you will know!
This is pretty easy to fix…..guy. I paint a number of cars a year myself……now a days it is almost imposable to buy paint to paint a door panel or fender to match….i get it close and no one notices….but i would not do it to my personal
“S-80.”
I have done the repair above in just a few minutes and the result is better then “repainting” the door or panel.
Finger nail Polish is acrylic-lacquerer and is the very same paint used on cars…but finger nail paint is a much higher quality paint…the same for cars is water thin and cost me usually $90 to $125 per gallon, I use the polish to repair the clear coats, before or during custom car shows. Its quick and easy and no one can tell its been repaired.
Heck after a few times you’ll be a expert, and can pull in a little extra change from friends doing the same……
Have Fun….and take it slow the first time, it will look fine!